Saddle
Shortly after taming the horse, humans began to devise easier ways to ride them, ranging from the rough pads used by Native Americans to heavy wooden cavalry saddles. Today, there are two basic types of saddles: English and Western, with a great deal of variety in each style. The purpose is essentially the same: to make the horse and rider comfortable by helping the rider maintain proper position by distributing the rider's weight evenly across the horse's back.
To achieve this goal, however, the saddle must fit both horse and rider properly. Poorly fitting saddles can cause problems ranging from saddle sores to training difficulties. A good quality, well-fitted saddle, if appropriately cared for, can last a lifetime. Ask a knowledgeable horseman whom you trust to help you evaluate saddle and fit before you buy. Be sure to research the types of saddles available, and choose a saddle appropriate for the type or riding you'll be doing. Many saddles might look the same to novices, but competition rules can exclude and disqualify riders who use the wrong equipment.
Saddlebags
Bags designed to balance across the back of a saddle to carry supplies like a first-aid kit, water, and snacks.
Saddling a Horse
After you've groomed your horse, the saddle goes on first. Place the saddle pad on the horse's back, well up on the withers, creating a channel along the spine to allow air to circulate. Check that the pad lies equally on either side before lifting the saddle gently into place. Slide the saddle and pad back and adjust the pad if it's wrinkled. Make sure the hair under the saddle pad is smooth.
For an English saddle, fasten the girth on one side and then bring it under the belly to attach it to the other side (usually right side first, then left). (If your horse needs a martingale, put that on first, so that you can run the girth through the loop and only fasten your girth once.) Don't tighten the girth too much at first; do it just enough to keep the saddle in place. Watch the horse's ears; some horses object to this part of the process.
For a Western saddle, adjust the blanket the same way as above and carefully swing the saddle into place. The stirrup and cinch should be looped over the horn to get them out of the way. If you tack up from the off side, you only have to lift the latigo strap out of the way along with the stirrup instead of the entire cinch. Western saddles are heavy, so be careful you don't slam the horse's back and hurt him. Slide the saddle back from the withers until it rests in a natural spot behind the shoulders.
Now bring the cinch forward and loop the latigo through the cinch ring, up to the rigging and back again before securing it in the manner you've been taught.
Bridling a Horse
Once you've got the saddle in place, put your bridle in a handy spot (hanging over your shoulder, for example). If your horse is in his stall, proceed with bridling him, but if he's tied, make sure he stays put by unbuckling his halter, slipping it off his nose, and rebuckling it around his neck so that you'll still have something to grab onto if he takes off.
To get a bridle on a horse, stand just behind his head on the left side. Holding the crownpiece in your right hand, pull it toward the ears, while you guide the bit into his mouth with your left hand. If he doesn't accept the bit easily, slide your thumb into his mouth at the corners (bars) where there aren't any teeth. Be gentle with the bit - how would you like to have a heavy piece of metal banging against your teeth? Once the bit is in place, your left hand is free to finish pulling the crownpiece over the ears. Fold the ears forward rather than pinning them back and then having to bend them under the crownpiece.
Make sure all the straps are laying flat and comfortably against his face. Now fasten the throatlatch, leaving room for four fingers to slide through, and the noseband, which should be fairly snug without pinching. If there's a standing martingale, don't forget to slip the loop onto the noseband before buckling. Unless you're leading your horse, put the reins over his head.
If you have to tie a saddled and bridled horse, put a halter on him and run the reins under the stirrup irons to keep them from falling over his head. Never tie a horse by the bridle!
Safety
All horse-related activities should begin with a solid understanding of basic safety rules. Horses are domesticated wild animals that frequently weigh ten times our body weight and always have a mind of their own. Safety rules must be learned and adhered to in order to minimize risk.
Safety rules protect both horses and humans. Although rules may range from essentially nonexistent in some barns to overbearing in others, there are some commonsense rules that all horsemen should consider golden.
Rules for Approaching and Handling Horses:
Never ride alone! To be truly safe, never handle horses while alone. Consider what may happen if you get injured and have internal bleeding. How long might it be before someone finds you if you are alone?
Be sure the horse is aware of your presence as you approach. Approach the horse from the side at a three-quarter angle to his shoulder and speak to him. Never approach from or stand directly in front or behind because these are blind spots in the horse's vision.
Feed treats from buckets, not your hand. How is a horse supposed to tell the difference between your fingers and the treats you feed him?
Never sit down while holding a horse.
Always use a safety knot when tying.
Stop your horse before leading him through narrow openings such as gates and stall doors; teach him to let you enter first. This will help prevent him from running you over or hitting his hips on the edge of the opening, which could lead to anxiety about going through such openings.
Always move calmly around horses. No running or horseplay.
Never ride in the barn aisle.
Bend from the waist, rather than kneeling down, to work on the horse's lower legs and hooves.
Guidelines for Safe Dress: Always wear a helmet! Eighty percent of all deaths from horse-related accidents when mounted result from head injuries.
Wear long pants at all times when around horses since serious lacerations can occur if shorts are worn and an accident occurs.
Wear safe footwear: boots that are at or above the ankle, have hard soles, and at least a 1/2-inch heel. This helps prevent life-threatening injuries that occur when a rider's foot slips through the stirrup during a fall.
Avoid loose clothing. Loose garments can catch on the saddle during a fall, and cause a rider to be dragged. (This situation often results in life-threatening injuries.)
Salt
All animals need salt to maintain body fluids, and horses are no exception. Salt should be available to your horse at all times, and it is usually offered in blocks that can be left in stalls and pastures.
Different horses have different salt needs, so putting it in his food won't always ensure that he's getting the right amount and may provide an overdose.
Sawbuck
A traditional pack saddle formed by pairs of wooden supports onto which you tie your load.
Scoop for Grain
Feeding your horse a scoop of grain in the morning and evening may seem pretty reasonable. But because scoops come in so many sizes and shapes, you should actually weigh the feed you are giving rather than rely on volume.
Also, one crop of oats or other grain may weigh more than another due to higher moisture content.
Once you've figured out how much your particular scoop holds, you still should weigh the feed regularly, especially if you change suppliers or brands.
Scoop Shovel
A handy piece of equipment to have around the stable. It can be used to handle anything from wet bedding and manure to bulk feed to snow.
Just be sure to have separate shovels for stall cleaning and feed shoveling.
Seasonal Care
While your horse's basic needs for food, shelter, and health care are the same year-round, each season brings with it particular routines. Throughout the year, your horse should be on a regular schedule of deworming and vaccinations established with your veterinarian, which will vary depending on where you live.
The horse should also be seen regularly by a good farrier, who will trim his feet and check his shoes every 6 to 8 weeks, even in the winter. Get the horse's teeth checked at least once a year. Even when not ridden regularly, horses need to be fed at least twice a day and checked for overall health and safety.
Seat
The position in which a rider sits on a horse. There are numerous types of seats that correspond to different disciplines. The most common and versatile style is called either "basic" or "balanced" seat, which can be adapted easily as a rider progresses to different disciplines.
The basic seat or balanced seat positions the rider squarely in the saddle, with weight distributed evenly on both sitting bones down through both stirrups. Your head is up and your eyes should be looking ahead. Shoulders should be square and relaxed with arms hanging comfortably. You should be able to draw an imaginary line from your elbow through your wrists and reins to the horse's mouth. The height of the hands, therefore, depends on the conformation of horse and rider.
Your upper body is held in a position comparable to proper posture for sitting in a chair, with suppleness and softness in your abdomen that allows for absorption of the horse's motion at the trot and canter. Your hips should be level, with even weight on each buttock. Your thighs should hug your horse with knees pointing straight ahead, not pinching inward or flopping outward. Your calves should lightly contact the horse's sides (exact amount of your leg that contacts horse depends on the size of horse's barrel since smaller horses' barrels tend to slope inward just below the rider's knees).
The lower leg is carried in such a manner that an imaginary line can be drawn perpendicular to the ground from the rider's knee to her toe. The heel is down but not pushed down in a manner that locks the ankle. The ankles should be softly held in place. Rigidity creates a stiff and ineffective leg. The stirrup is usually set so that it reaches to just below the ankle when the feet are disengaged. Variations of leg position are normal because physical differences do not enable all riders to conform to this standard.
Selenium
Although needed only in trace amounts, selenium is vital for proper muscle development. A deficiency is a suspected cause of azoturia. This mineral is also important in maintaining immune function.
However, it is toxic if eaten in large quantities - certain plants such as locoweed, most vetches, and some varieties of aster store high levels from the soil.
Shank
A lead shank is one to which a chain is attached. The shank of a curb bit is the part that extends below the mouth. Reins are attached at the bottom of the shank. There are rules that limit how long a shank can be in competition.
The longer the shank, the more pressure it exerts on the bars and chin groove when a rider pulls back on the reins. To "shank" a horse means to jerk on the lead attached to the chain that runs either over its nose or under its chin.
Shedding Blade
A curved metal blade with serrated teeth for pulling off loose hair. The serrated edge of a shedding blade can be used after the rubber curry comb to remove loose hair.
Lay it against the horse's coat and sweep in the direction of the hair. The smooth edge can be used to scrape off water after a bath.
Sheet
A lightweight covering available for a variety of purposes: to protect against flies, to keep a newly washed horse clean, to reduce sweating on very hot days, to cool out a sweaty horse on a cold day, or to keep rain and dirt off a horse at pasture.
Some sheets are designed for turnout, while others are only appropriate for use in stalls or while the horse is tied or being walked.
Shelter
Wild horses can withstand a fair amount of bad weather as long as they can find adequate protection on very cold, wet, or windy days. But most horse owners provide some sort of structure for their horses, ranging from a simple three-sided shed to an elaborate stable with box stalls, warm water, and an attached riding arena.
In some states, Humane Societies have fought to make at least minimal shelter a requirement by law.
Shipping Boots and Shipping Wraps
Whenever your horse travels in a trailer, his legs should be protected from bumps and cuts with specially designed boots or heavily padded wraps.
Travel or shipping boots come in many different styles, but generally have self-fastening straps and a durable outer layer of heavy nylon or even Kevlar (the same material used in bulletproof vests).
Shipping wraps are similar to other leg wraps but use taller, thicker quilts and wider bandages. The most important part in both cases is to protect the coronary band and the bulb of the heel and to avoid damage caused by poorly fitting wraps or boots.
As part of training your horse to load and unload from a trailer, accustom him to the sensation of the boots or wraps on his legs. Right before a show isn't the time to discover that he won't load because the shipping boots make him crazy.
Side Reins
Training equipment used to help the horse improve flexion and develop a strong "circle" of muscle throughout his body. They are most often made of leather with a rubber ring that allows some elasticity and give during a longe-line workout. They attach to the bit and either a surcingle or a saddle ring.
It is vital that side reins be adjusted properly and readjusted as the horse develops in its training program. These are somewhat advanced tools that should only be used by educated horsemen. It's relatively easy to learn the adjustment process from someone who can explain both how to adjust them and why they are adjusting as they are.
Skid Boots
Skid boots protect the rear fetlock/ergot area from getting kicked or rubbed raw in the dirt when a horse stops hard and suddenly, as when reining, cutting, or roping.
Snaffle Bit
The snaffle is one of the most widely used bits because it is one of the gentlest available. Most trainers use a snaffle on the green horses they work. Most instructors put snaffles in the mouths of their lesson horses.
Most snaffles have jointed mouthpieces. Many horsemen believe it is this jointed mouthpiece that differentiates a snaffle from a curb, but some snaffles come with a straight, unjointed mouthpiece.
Snaffles work through direct pressure on the corners of the mouth, the bars, and the lips. This differs from the leverage action of a curb bit. Snaffles come in a variety of sizes and styles, from the smooth, round-ring snaffle to the full-cheek Dr. Bristol snaffle.
The vast majority of snaffles have a single or double jointed mouth piece that lies across the horse's tongue. Double joints allow the bit to work more softly on horses with thick tongues or low palates. (Fitting bits is a science that requires years of experience, so ask for help from a professional if your horse has biting problems.)
The thicker the mouthpiece, the milder its action on the horse's mouth. Thin mouthpieces can literally slice a horse's tongue, so they should only be used by experienced horsemen, educated about the proper use of such a bit.
Spurs
Spurs are one of the artificial aids used to reinforce the natural leg aid. Spurs should only be used by experienced riders who have been educated in their proper use, and only as reinforcement to cues given by the rider's leg when the horse does not respond to such cues.
Riders must have full control of their lower legs and be able to ride with an independent seat, before advancing to wearing spurs. Riders who lack such skills often inadvertently jab their horse's sides with the spurs, sometimes with dangerous results.
There are many types of spurs, ranging from short blunt spurs commonly worn by dressage and hunt riders, to the large doweled spurs worn by rodeo cowboys. Regardless of style, spurs should always be worn pointing downward, with the longer side on the outside of the boot.
Stable - Choosing a Stable
If, like most horse owners, you are unable to keep your horse at home, you need a suitable facility at which to board him. Like finding good daycare for an infant, the process of locating a stable should begin before you actually acquire the horse.
To get an idea of what facility would work best for you, visit all the barns in your area and ask lots of questions of fellow horse owners. Check out the current boarders for healthy-looking coats and alert, interested attitudes. Ask about worming and farrier schedules, emergency procedures, hay and feed storage, and turnout policies. Some places charge extra for giving supplements and medicines or for putting on blankets and boots.
In addition to the obvious concerns of how well the horses are cared for and how safe the barn is for both horses and riders, you'll want to find out how the barn suits your riding style and needs. Is it convenient to your home or workplace? If you like to do trail riding, make sure you have access to well-maintained trails. If you do a lot of schooling, ask about availability of the arena for boarders versus students taking lessons.
In addition to the obvious concerns of how well the horses are cared for and how safe the barn is for both horses and riders, you'll want to find out how the barn suits your riding style and needs. Is it convenient to your home or workplace? If you like to do trail riding, make sure you have access to well-maintained trails. If you do a lot of schooling, ask about availability of the arena for boarders versus students taking lessons.
Stall - Choosing a Stable
Ideally, your horse should spend the better part of his day or night outdoors. Most horses, however, are kept in stalls either at night in the winter or during the day in the summer, with further confinement in very wet weather.
Tie stalls, narrow chutes in which the horse stands with his head tied, are not satisfactory for long periods of time. The average horse needs a box stall measuring at least 10 feet by 12 feet (12 feet by 12 feet is even better), which allows him to move around, lie down, and, if he's so inclined, urinate and defecate away from his food. Ponies can live in smaller space, but no less than 10 feet by 10 feet.
Stall walls should be solidly built of wood, cement, or metal (possibly covered with rubber mats). They should be at a height of 4 to 5 feet, and can be up to 8 feet between stalls. The walls must be strong enough to withstand repeated kicking, both of the restless, "pay attention to me" type or the powerful "get me out of here" type. The top part of the stall wall should have wire grills or mesh with openings of 2 inches or less for light and ventilation. The ceiling must be at least 8 feet high. Openings need to be at least 4 feet wide to accommodate a horse, as well as a large wheelbarrow for cleaning.
There are a number of options for flooring including dirt, concrete, and wood and bedding. Rubber mats can protect against many of the disadvantages of each type of floor, offering further cushion for legs and keeping the floor itself safe from digging hooves and soaking urine.
Standing Bandage - Stable Wrap
This type of wrap, a piece of quilting held in place with a stretchy roll bandage, is often used with liniment on a lower leg to reduce swelling and fluid accumulation.
Although it can stay on overnight (without liniment, which could burn the skin), a standing bandage should be removed for at least an hour out of every 12- to 16-hour period.
It doesn't matter which direction you wrap the bandage, but it is important to use even tension without pulling on the flexor or extensor tendons. Make sure the quilt stays smooth, with no wrinkles or lumps.
Steroids
Because steroids (such as dexamethasone) and epinephrine (adrenaline) can be crucial in reversing the effects of anaphylactic shock due to severe allergic reaction, these drugs should always be kept in your first-aid kit.
Steroids are also used to treat a variety of other conditions. They can be used as performance enhancers, but horse show rules restrict such use.
Stethoscope
A stethoscope can be useful in determining a horse's pulse or checking for the normal sounds of a healthy gut.
Stirrups
Stirrups afford the rider greater stability and control of leg position. There are a number of styles available, depending on what kind of riding you do. English stirrups are made of steel and attach to the saddle with narrow leather straps, with holes to adjust the length. Western stirrups are thicker and wider than English stirrups, and are usually made of leather, but are sometimes made of wood.
The most important aspect of stirrups is that they fit properly, allowing your feet to slip out easily. Some stirrups have a modified design, while others have a rubber safety release. Rubber stirrup pads can improve your traction, but don't use them if you're wearing rubber-soled shoes, which may stick.
For most types of English riding, your stirrup leathers should be roughly the same length as your arm. To measure, place your fingertips at the top of the leather and stretch it out along your arm. The bottom of the stirrup should fit into your armpit. Jumping requires a somewhat shorter stirrup, while dressage riders use a longer one. Western stirrups are also longer, to allow for many hours in the saddle.
Stock (tie)
Part of formal hunt or show attire, a stock is a narrow white scarf that wraps around the throat, rather like an ascot, and is often fastened with a small pin. Stocks were originally worn by hunters as a convenient way of carrying an extra bandage in case of injury.
Stock Seat
The basic seat used for Western riding. Stock seat equitation refers to equitation of Western riders.
Stockings
Leg markings that go above the knee and/or hock.
Stocks (as restraints)
Narrow stalls that prevent a horse from moving around while being bathed, shod, examined by a veterinarian, or undergoing any other procedure to which he might object.
They come in several designs, allowing different ranges of movement and access to the animal. Some have solid panels at the front and rear to protect people from getting kicked.
Straight Bit
A bit with no joint or projections, just a bar. It is vital to fit this type of bit correctly because it is rather unforgiving.
Work with a professional well-versed in proper fitting of bits if you are unfamiliar with the concepts of considering a horse's tongue size, palate depth, and bar width. (So-called professionals who are unfamiliar with these terms should be avoided since they won't likely know what is best for your horse's mouth.)
Straight Stall
A narrow stall with two walls and a manger. Horses are tied while in straight stalls and cannot turn around or lie down.
Straw Bedding
Straw makes perfectly acceptable bedding but is becoming less popular because it causes colic in horses that eat it. Also, it is not as absorbent as other types of bedding, and you must use a lot of it to properly bed a stall.
Stud Farm
A facility with a stallion or stallions standing at stud to which mares are sent to breed. A mare can either stay at the farm until the birth of the foal or return to her own barn for the pregnancy and birth.
Supplements
All that most horses need for a balanced diet is grass or hay, water, and salt. Technically, grain is a supplement, but most people use the term to refer to vitamins and minerals that are added to the grain. Be very careful when adding things to your horse's diet.
Supplements are generally not necessary unless the horse is working extremely hard (like a race or show horse), has a health problem, is pregnant, or is not receiving sufficient nutrients from its basic diet of hay and/or grain.
Some supplements are toxic in large quantities, so read dosages carefully. Others are fattening, and fat horses are prone to performance and soundness problems. Overfeeding supplements to foals can create permanent skeletal malformation. Always determine the need for supplements on an individual basis. Ask your veterinarian for advice if you're unsure.
Surcingle
A term referring to two pieces of equipment that are similar but not identical.
The first is a strap placed around the barrel of a horse to keep its blanket in place. It is commonly made of either leather or nylon.
The second is a piece of training equipment that looks similar to the part of a harness that goes around the barrel of the horse. It is usually made of leather or nylon, has buckles similar to those used on English girths and metal rings in a variety of locations. This enables side reins to be attached to the surcingle and bit or driving lines to be run from the bit, through a ring. Rings on the top of the surcingle can be used for attaching an overcheck and the crupper, which runs along the croup and under the tail. The crupper prevents the surcingle from being pulled up over the horse's withers.
Sweet Feed
A mixture of grains and pellets held together with molasses, which cuts down on dust. Horses tend to love sweet feed because of the molasses, but it spoils quickly if not kept in a cool, dry place.
Dry molasses still cuts dust but is less perishable. Different sweet feeds have different amounts of protein and fat in them, so check carefully to find a brand that offers the right nutrition for your horse.
Swingletree (Single Tree)
Also called a whippletree or wiffletree, this is the part of the harness that connects the traces to the cart or plow.
There can be a single or double swingletree, depending on how many horses are being hitched.
Synthetic Saddle
Saddles made of manmade materials can be just as comfortable, sturdy, and well-constructed as saddles made of leather. They are easy to care for (no saddle soap needed!), lightweight, and can get wet without damage.
When riding in a synthetic saddle, make sure to check the girth after mounting, as some types will compress with a rider on board.
T
Tack
The gear that people put on horses to control them - from halters to harnesses. Whole books have been written about tack. When mankind first tamed the horse thousands of years ago, the only equipment was a leather thong wrapped around the horse's jaw. Native Americans rode that way for centuries. The basic bridle as we know it was developed by the Egyptians more than 400 years ago. Today, a bewildering number of options are available to the rider.
The two basic styles of riding, English and Western, use quite different saddles and sometimes very different bridles. For either style, the average rider will use the following: a bridle with reins and a bit (or a bridle without a bit, called a hackamore); a saddle pad; and a saddle with a cinch or girth, stirrups, and stirrup leathers. Some horses also need a martingale, which offers further control of the head.
When shopping for tack, make sure it fits your horse and fits you. There are options for all budgets, from finding a good, used saddle in your local tack shop to custom-ordering a fancy dressage saddle. Well-made used tack is often a better bargain than new, cheap equipment that might not last as well. Don't be shy about seeking help when purchasing tack - it's a big investment and is worth doing right.
Tack Room
Most barns or stables have a separate room for storing tack. It's important to store tack off the floor away from nibbling rodents and to keep it out of damp and dusty conditions.
A well-designed tack room has enough room for each rider to hang her saddle and bridle and store a trunk for grooming equipment, bandages, blankets, and other gear.
Tacking Up
The process of getting equipment on a horse.
Tagalong (Straight-Pull) Trailer
A trailer, usually designed to carry two horses, which attaches to a hitch that is welded to the frame of the towing vehicle.
Caution: These trailers should never be attached to the bumper of a truck or SOY, even if they are referred to by the manufacturer as "bumper-pull" trailers. The truck's weight, towing capacity, and hitch must be appropriate for the trailer.
Tail Rope
A rope that is tied to a mare's tail and brought forward to a neck strap.
A tail rope is sometimes used during breeding to keep the tail out of the stallion's way, but more often the mare's tail is just wrapped in a bandage.
Tail Wrapping
Owners wrap their horse's tails for a variety of reasons. When a mare is being bred, her tail is wrapped to keep it clean and out of the way of the stallion. Sometimes a tail is wrapped to train the top hairs to lie flat. Most often, tails are wrapped to protect them during trailering.
You can use a self-closing type of tail wrap with a rubberized interior that grips the hairs, or you can wrap the tail with a stretchy bandage. In both cases, be careful to use light, even pressure when fastening the wrap: bandage cuts off circulation and can damage the dock, causing hair to fall out. Tail wraps should only be left on for an hour or so at a time.
Tapadero
On a Western saddle, a leather hood that attaches to the front of the stirrup and protects the foot against brush and thorns.
Tie-Down
A piece of equipment used in Western riding that serves some of the same functions as a standing martingale. A strap that connects from the noseband to the cinch, the tie-down keeps the horse from holding his head too high. It also helps him keep his head in position through tight turns and gives him something to brace against when holding a roped steer.
Tom Thumb
A piece of equipment used in Western riding that serves some of the same functions as a standing martingale. A strap that connects
A mild Pelham bit with short shanks. It comes in a variety of mouthpiece styles.
Total Digestible Nutrients (TDN)
Refers to the amount of nutrients from a given feeding of hay and grain that the horse actually utilizes.
A maintenance ration for a horse doing light work needs less TDN than one for a working horse or broodmare.
Toys for Horses
A variety of patented products, such as balls (some scented) and rolling grain-dispensing cylinders are available to provide exercise and entertainment for a horse.
Products such as these may keep a horse from knocking over and playing with his water bucket or from leaning out of his stall and grabbing whatever he can reach with his teeth.
Trace Clips
A body clip that leaves hair on the horse's back, withers, and legs.
Trailer
There are many different options when purchasing a trailer - more than there is room to discuss here. You will need to evaluate your own needs, number of horses, frequency of travel, and budget.
There are trailers for every horse owner, from the casual competitor who hauls one or two horses to a few local shows every summer to the professional trainer who regularly brings a dozen horses and riders to high-level competitions in several states.
The two main types of trailers are tagalong (or straight-pull) trailers and gooseneck trailers. The former, usually built to carry two horses, are more common and less expensive. They attach to a trailer hitch welded to the towing vehicle. A gooseneck is pulled by a full-sized, open-bed truck. They are more expensive, but offer some advantages in terms of storage space, and they are often the only option for hauling four or more horses.
When purchasing any trailer, but especially a used one, carefully inspect it for quality of construction. It is especially important to check the floorboards of a used trailer for soundness. Make sure all the wiring works, that the hinges and latches are oiled and easy to manipulate, and that there is no rust or other obvious signs of decay.
Trailering a Horse
It's very important to teach your horse to ride in a trailer and to load and unload calmly. Even if you never take him to shows, it's unlikely that he'll stay in one place for his whole life. A few hours spent familiarizing him with the process of trailering will save you endless hassles in the long run (and may save his life in an emergency).
Begin by leading your horse over and through a variety of obstacles, so that the trailer presents just one more challenge to overcome. Get him used to stepping up onto a platform and into narrow, covered spaces before asking him to try the trailer. When he's ready for the real thing, let him get used to the trailer by approaching it and sniffing it before asking him to get in. You will probably have to lead him in at first, but eventually, you should be able to send him in with a verbal command, staying outside to fasten the butt bar before going around to tie his head. (Loading a horse into a trailer is obviously easier with two people.)
Taking short trips with a seasoned companion helps a young or inexperienced horse learn that traveling by trailer isn't too scary. For longer trips, prepare an extensive checklist with everything you'll need for your trip. Make sure you're completely packed and ready to go (having checked over your list several times) before you load the horse(s), who should be well wrapped for protection against bumps and cuts that could happen along the way.
On long trips, you should stop periodically to check your rig and make sure the horses aren't too hot. Offer water every 2 or 3 hours.
Twitch (Restraint)
To twitch a horse means to grasp him firmly by the upper lip in order to make him stand still. This can be done by hand or with a special piece of equipment that is specially designed for this purpose.
Instead of relying on pain and fear to subdue a horse (that is probably already either fearful or in pain or he wouldn't need to be restrained), twitching releases endorphins that calm the horse and increase his ability to handle pain.
Not all horses will react calmly to being twitched, however, and you should only try it with a mature horse that is used to being handled. If you use the twitch gently and massage his nose afterwards, he should accept the procedure.
Tying
Horses spend a lot of their time tied up, so it's important that they learn to do so patiently. It's also important that you follow several basic safety rules, because a tied horse can easily injure himself if he panics or tries to escape.
Always tie your horse with a halter (never by the bridle) and use strong rope that isn't frayed or rotten. Tie him in cross ties with panic snaps or to a solid post or ring using a quick-release knot. Never leave a tied horse alone - he could get into a lot of trouble in just a few minutes, including flipping himself over (rare, but it happens).
V
Vaccinations
Vaccinations work by stimulating antibodies in the blood to fight off the harmful effects of bacterial or viral infection. Once an animal is exposed to a mild form of a disease through an inoculation, he can better resist infection caused by the disease pathogens.
Horses are more capable of building immunities if they receive vaccinations at a time when they are already healthy and in good condition. An ill, stressed, or undernourished animal may not have the reserves to effectively produce antibodies and, therefore, may not be sufficiently protected if exposed to a contagious disease via vaccination.
Become familiar with the diseases that affect horses in your area. Learn everything you can about the risks of disease versus the risks of vaccination against the disease; sometimes the vaccine is not worth the slight risk that your horse would contract the disease.
It is impossible to provide sound advice regarding the complex nature of diseases that affect horses in the various regions of the country. It is best to work with your veterinarian to develop an effective vaccination program for your horse.
Ventilation in Barns
Horses fare better in barns that have plenty of air and cross-ventilation.
Stuffy, enclosed buildings encourage the spread of airborne pathogens and respiratory illness.
Vests-Protective
When jumping or riding an unpredictable or predictably unreliable horse, many riders choose to wear protective vests in case of a fall.
Some stables require them for jumping students.
Vests are mandatory in many cross-country competitions, and they are a good idea for rough rodeo riding.
Some horsemen even wear them when working with unruly horses on the ground, to lessen risk of injury from being struck or trampled.
Vitamins
A horse on good pasture or high-quality hay has no need of supplementary vitamins.
If you determine that your horse requires additional vitamins because of poor feed or his current condition, consult with your veterinarian about appropriately supplementing the diet.
W
Water
Good-quality water is vital to your horse's health and should be available to him at all times. On average, a horse will drink between 8 and 12 gallons a day - more in the summer or after hard work, and less in the winter.
However your horse gets his water (in a bucket or tub, from a stream or pond, or through an automatic waterer), you need to check the source daily.
Containers need to be cleaned and refilled. Ponds can become stagnant, and even running brooks may freeze. Automatic waterers can malfunction, either flooding an area or leaving your horse without needed water.
After strenuous exercise, limit your horse's water intake to a few sips until he is completely cooled down; too much water too soon after exertion can lead to founder. A very warm horse can be sponged or hosed with tepid water to cool him off and wash the sweat from his coat. Cold water is not only uncomfortable for him, but also it can cause his back muscles to stiffen.
Web Halter
A halter made of strong nylon weave. Web halters are the most commonly used halters because they are inexpensive and come in a variety of colors. However, the wide webbing doesn't work for some horses that may become pushy.
If the hardware on the halter is poorly made, the halter may break at one of those points. On the other hand, a nylon halter with heavy hardware may not break at all, which could be dangerous if the horse gets caught on something, so look for one with a leather crownpiece.
Weighing Feed
A horse's ration should be determined by weight, not volume. This is due to the fact that each crop of hay or grain has the potential of drastic differences in weight, due in part to variances in moisture and mineral content. So it is vital to your horse's well-being that you weigh your standard measure each time you receive a new load of feed.
Weigh a bale of hay, then divide that weight by the number of flakes/slabs of hay in that bale to determine the number of flakes your horse needs at each feeding. Weigh a full grain scoop so you know how many scoops your horse needs of the new feed to equal the weight he received of your previous feed. You need to do this even if you don't change rations. A com/oat mix can differ by as much as 25 percent depending on the moisture content and quality of the grains.
Wheat and Wheat Bran
Wheat is not commonly fed to horses because of its cost, but in areas where it is grown, it can make up part of the grain ration (no more than 20 percent). Wheat is high in protein and energy but it isn't very bulky and should be mixed with other grains. It must be rolled or crushed to make it easier to chew and digest.
Wheat bran, the rough outer casing of the kernel, adds bulk to concentrated foods and has a laxative effect.
A bran mash can be a nice pick-me-up for a tired or sick horse in the winter and it can help stop constipation. Wheat bran should not be fed dry unless it's given in very small amounts and is well-mixed with other grains.
Whips - Using Whips
A whip can be an effective addition to the natural aids, which should always be used first. If a horse does not respond to the touch of the lower leg or to the voice, a tap with a whip can reinforce the desired response.
In longeing, the long whip keeps the horse from moving in towards the handler. A long whip can also help in teaching ground manners.
Whips and crops should never be used to punish or frighten a horse. If improperly applied, these aids create fear and resentment, and horses don't forget such treatment. Overuse leads to insensitivity and decreasing responsiveness to aids.
Wisps
A simple handful of hay can be a useful grooming tool, or you can weave a sturdy pad that can be used for a stimulating massage.
Using a wisp can be a nice addition to your grooming routine. For a vigorous stropping, smack the wisp flat against the larger muscles (neck, shoulders, hindquarters) and whisk it along the direction of the hair growth. This gentle banging causes the muscles to contract and then relax, increasing circulation and carrying away waste products.
Wood Fencing
Wood fences are the classic look for a horse farm, but they have advantages and disadvantages. When properly maintained, they can last for years, especially in a dry climate (wet climates require periodic application of preservatives).
Maintenance is the key - check regularly for nails, splinters, cracks, loose boards, and other hazards. An electric wire along the top and just inside the fence line keeps cribbers and chewers away.