M

Mane, Care For

Ideally, your horse already has a neatly groomed mane that combs out easily every time you groom him. However, after a lengthy pasture turnout, especially in bad weather, you might be faced with a knotted, snarled mess of burrs. Don't cut it all off and don't attack it with a comb.

Start by thoroughly coating the entire mane with a detangling spray or gel. Work the solution into the mane with your fingers. Wearing a pair of old leather gloves (which will build up a slick layer of detangler), begin to gently untangle the worst knots. Horsehair tends to twist together, so look for the direction of the twist and work the hairs free.

Once the biggest snarls are loosened, comb through the mane with your fingers, trying not to yank too hard. Most horses don't mind having their manes tugged, but pulling at major knots can be irritating and can also lead to loss of hair. The next step is to work with a human hairbrush, the kind with widely spaced plastic bristles. Start at the ends and brush gently as you work your way up to the crest, checking for burrs and other debris that you might have missed.

Don't use a comb until the brush goes the length of the mane without catching. A long mane should be treated regularly with detangler to keep it from snarling. It can be braided loosely into sections before a lengthy pasture turnout to prevent tangles and to keep burrs at bay. Most owners prefer the mane to be about four inches long, though several breeds are shown with long, flowing manes.

Mane Comb

Your grooming kit should contain a wide-toothed comb (usually plastic) and a metal mane-pulling comb with a handle.

Manty

A piece of canvas used to protect the load on a pack animal.

Martingale

A strap that prevents the horse from tossing his head too high, called a tie-down in Western parlance. There are two basic types, the standing martingale (more restrictive) and the running martingale (less restrictive).

The standing martingale consists of two straps: one strap that circles the base of the horse's neck, and another that runs from the back of a cavesson noseband, through a slit in the neck strap, to buckle around the saddle girth.

The running martingale attaches to the girth and the neck strap in the same way. Two straps come up from the neck strap, one attaching to each rein with a metal ring.

Both types of martingale should be carefully fitted

Mash

A warm bran mash is a time-honored recipe to perk up a cold or sick horse. However, any grain can be made into a mash (which is basically porridge) and bran has been found to be harmful to horses if fed in large quantities.

To make a mash, add enough boiling water (or as hot as you can get it from the tap) to make the normal feed ration wet, but not dripping. Start with one part water to two parts grain and experiment for best results; flaked grains will absorb more water than whole grains, while pellets will quickly turn to mush, so the amount of water depends on what grain you're feeding.

Stir the mixture well and cover the bucket for 5 or 10 minutes to let it steam. Feed while it is still warm but not too hot for you to handle with bare hands. After use, make sure to clean the bucket and the feeder well, as wet feed spoils quite quickly.

Massage Therapy

People love massages, and so do horses. Their bodies are composed of more than 60 percent muscle, so there are lots of opportunities for aches and pains.

A good equine massage therapist can manipulate tissue to increase circulation, relax tight spots, relieve spasms, and just generally make your horse feel better.

Massage can be part of a treatment program for an injury and can actually help prevent injuries, especially in horses that are worked hard.

Mats

Rubber mats that provide traction in stalls and trailers, on ramps, in aisles, and anywhere that surfaces might become slick.

They also prevent horses from digging holes in dirt floors, and they make excellent cushions for preventing calluses and easing arthritic horses' joints.

McClellan Saddle

The official saddle of the United States cavalry.

The McClellan is still used by many long-distance riders who swear by its comfort for both them and the horse. Others find it comfortable for the horse, but not so comfortable for the rider.

Mecate

Reins of braided horsehair, used with a bosal (noseband) instead of a bit in Western tack.

Milk Replacer

Sometimes a foal needs to be raised on milk replacer. If you find yourself with an orphaned or rejected foal and no nursemare, consult your veterinarian about an appropriate product.

There are a number of products on the market, each with different formulas for the various needs of newborn foals. There are several home recipes based on cow's milk that are also effective (see box). Straight cow's milk is higher in fat and protein but lower in carbohydrates than mare's milk. Most foals will also do well if you substitute goat's milk.

A young foal needs about 2 gallons of milk every 24 hours. Many small meals are better than trying to stuff him a few times a day. Try to accustom the foal to drinking from a bucket right away; buckets are easy to clean and you can leave enough milk replacer to last the foal several hours. In fact, he should be fed a half-pint every half-hour for the first five days, increasing to a full pint for the next five days. After 10 days, the foal can handle two-hour intervals at night if he is still fed hourly during the day. Gradually, by the time the foal is a month old, the amount fed can increase as the time between feedings increases to 4 or 5 hours.

If your orphan foal is not doing well on a particular milk replacer, find a different one. If he develops diarrhea, substitute electrolyte solution for the cow's milk for a few days to give the gut a chance to heal. Your foal should gain 1 to 3 pounds a day, and should be introduced to alfalfa hay, green grass, and/or pellets as soon as he shows interest. Weaning can take place at around 6 to 8 weeks.

Mitt

A sheepskin finishing mitt is used at the end of a thorough grooming to "set" the coat and bring out a shine.

It can also be used to groom the horse's face.

Mounting Blocks

A stepstool that gives you some additional height when getting on a horse. The common type is made of molded plastic with two steps and a carrying groove.

You also might build a set of wooden steps with a platform or use a kitchen stepstool, but be sure it's one that won't tip over too easily or damage your horse's legs if he steps on it.

Mucking Out Stalls

Part of the pleasure of owning a horse is taking care of him and keeping him safe, clean, and healthy. Mucking out stalls is a vital component of horse care.

Stalls should be thoroughly cleaned every day, with additional manure and wet spots picked up as frequently as possible. It is important to remove all soiled bedding to prevent moisture and fumes from building up and to cut down on potential parasite problems.

People have individual techniques for cleaning stalls and you will find a technique that suits your needs. The basic procedure is to pick out the intact manure and messy bedding with a pitchfork or manure fork, dumping it in a wheelbarrow as you go. Scoop out wet spots with a shovel, which can also be used to get any bedding and waste that falls through the tines of the fork. Use old bedding to soak up any really wet places and remove it. The idea is to get rid of all bedding that is wet or dirty, while reusing bedding that isn't soiled. If possible, allow the floor to air-dry before adding fresh bedding.

However, if the stall's occupant is coming right back in, you can sprinkle lime or another odor neutralizer on the wet spots and rake the remaining old bedding over them. Fresh bedding should be heaviest where the horse tends to lie down, and should be banked up along the walls somewhat in case the horse gets cast against a wall and can't get up. You don't need to put bedding under the feed bin and water bucket or right in front of the stall door.

Muzzle (device)

A device that prevents a horse from opening his mouth. There are several reasons why you might find it necessary to muzzle your horse. If he is tearing at a bandage or chewing at a wound, a muzzle will give the injury a chance to heal.

A muzzle will also keep a chronic wood chewer off your fencing. In some cases, broodmares are muzzled while turned out with their foals. The babies often need the rich pasture more than their mothers, who might put on too much weight if allowed to graze all day.

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Neoprene (device)

A stretchy, non breathing fabric used in a variety of horse-related products. It is flexible, waterproof, and airtight and can be molded to various parts of the horse's anatomy.

It is often used to wrap tails, as it grips well and doesn't slip off, and for protective boots and neck sweats.

It's important to use moderate tension when wrapping neoprene, however, as it can easily be put on too tightly, thus cutting off circulation.

Net or Mesh Wire Fencing (device)

Safer than barbed wire, net or mesh wire makes a good horse fence if the openings are smaller than hoof-sized.

It can last a long time if properly installed and reinforced. A pole across the top prevents horses from leaning over the top.

Nose Chain (device)

A chain that runs through the cheek rings and over or under a horse's nose so that it corrects him if he throws his head around.

Nose chains can be useful in handling a horse that is nervy or badly behaved, and they are routinely used when leading stallions.

You can buy a chain separately that can be attached to any lead rope, or purchase a lead rope with a chain at one end.

The chain should be applied intermittently, not with constant pressure, and should be released the instant the horse behaves appropriately.

Caution: Never tie a horse with a nose chain.

Noseband (device)

The part of a halter or bridle that fits around the horse's nose, above the bit.

Nursing Hobbles (device)

A device applied to a nursing mare's hind legs when there is reason to believe she may kick the foal - for example, when she is being induced to take on an orphan.

Hobbles are generally lined with fleece so they won't cut into the mare's legs, and they are used only until she accepts the foal she is expected to nurse. They have enough give to allow her to walk around the stall.

O

Oat Hay, Cautions

Oat hay can be a suitable component of a horse's diet if it is cut before the seed heads mature.

The mature straw is hard to digest and offers little nutritional value. It often causes gas colic, which can become life threatening.

Under certain growing conditions, oat hay may contain nitrates which are harmful to horses.

Oats

A staple food that horses love, oats are nutritious and offer a good balance of fiber (roughly 11 percent) and protein (9.4 percent).

A bushel of oats weighs between 32 and 40 pounds.

Oats can be safely fed in quantity; they are about 30 percent hull, which gives bulk and keeps the feed moving along the digestive tract.

Overfeeding

Feeding a horse more than he needs to maintain adequate body weight and energy output can lead to serious problems. A fat horse cannot perform well and is prone to unsoundness and other health problems. An overfed foal may develop permanent deformities of the leg.

Overfeeding of grain, apples, or other treats (even hay or grass if a horse is unaccustomed to it) can lead to colic, laminitis, and other illnesses.

Overheating

While many horses are blanketed both indoors and out during the winter (or during cold, windy, or rainy weather), it is important to judge their needs.

A heavy, warm blanket may be necessary for cold nights in a stable but could easily be too hot for a sunny, still day in the pasture, even if the temperature is low.

An active horse can work up a sweat in a too heavy blanket and then become chilled, which saps his energy and could lead to respiratory problems.

Oxer

A type of jump with two rails that may be even or uneven.

P

Paddock

A fenced area near a barn or stable that is used for exercise.

Paddocks can range from quite small to an acre in size; larger areas are referred to as pastures. Corral is a Western term for paddock.

Smaller paddocks tend to be drylots without grass.

Pen

A turnout area for a horse, usually measuring no more than 50 feet by 50 feet, that provides a horse with outdoor living space. Because pens are small, they usually have no grass and do not allow the horse sufficient room to exercise.

Pens can be surrounded by permanent fencing or created by putting together portable, metal-barred panels. In the case of the latter, extreme care should be taken when selecting the panels to ensure that horses cannot get their legs caught between the bars. The panels also need to be high enough to prevent a horse from jumping or climbing over them.

Protein

Regardless of the mammal being fed, protein is required for cell growth, maintenance, and repair, in muscles, bones, blood, skin, hair, and hooves. The building blocks of proteins are amino acids. A horse's diet must provide approximately half of the required amino acids; his body manufactures the other half.

Insufficient protein can lead to poor growth, poor performance, insufficient muscle development, and a lack of appetite. Mares need extra protein during the last trimester to ensure proper development of the fetus and healthy nursing. If a horse is slow to shed out his winter coat, a little extra protein can help the new hair grow in more quickly.

On the other hand, too much protein can be dangerous. It can lead to kidney damage and eventually toxic levels of the by-products of protein digestion. If too much protein is fed to young horses, their growth rate may lead to contracted tendons, bone malformation, and inflammation of the cartilage and bone. Too much protein can make a horse "hot" or overly energetic and hard to handle.

Because protein produces heat when digested, it also literally warms a horse and can help maintain body temperature in the winter. For the same reason, protein can be a poor choice of feed in the summertime.

All of the common feeds used for horses provide some protein. Soybeans and legume hay provide the highest concentration of protein; they should be fed only to horses with high-level needs for protein.

Pully Rein

A rein used only in extreme circumstances, when your horse is running and out of control.

This is a very strong check on the bit, in which you shorten your reins, brace one hand against the horse's neck and pull up and back on the other rein. It's a good idea to practice the motions of a pulley rein, without the final strong pull, to get a feel for it.

Q

Quick-Release Knot

For obvious reasons, you should always tie a horse with a knot that won't get tighter if the horse pulls against it. It is also important to be able to free your horse in a hurry if he is panicking or if an emergency arises. See the following illustrations for two variations of quick-release knots.

Note: When tying a quick-release knot, make sure to keep your fingers out of loops to avoid getting them caught if your horse pulls back suddenly. If your horse learns to pull the free end of the rope (thereby releasing himself), run that end through the loop; this is referred to as a "safety" knot. He won't be able to untie himself, but be aware that you won't really have a quick-release knot any more.

R

Reins

The reins attach to the bit and connect the horse to the rider, who should hold them lightly and with respect for the horse's mouth. There are many kinds of reins, generally made of flat or braided leather, though reins can be rubber, nylon, or braided mohair rope.

In English riding, the reins are connected in a single loop from one side of the bit to the other, usually buckled in the middle, and are almost always leather.

In Western riding, the reins (or roping reins) might be connected, as in English riding, but are more commonly open or split. Open reins are 6 to 8 feet long, made of a variety of materials, and not connected at the ends.

Closed reins, also called California reins, have three parts. The two side reins are connected by a long quirt or romal, which hangs down by the horse's shoulder.

Restraints

Humans have devised methods for restraining horses for thousands of years. Some form of restraint is usually required for veterinary care or special situations that might trigger the horse's defensive responses.

The type of restraint used depends on many factors, including but not limited to the situation, the personality and experience of the horse and handler(s), and the environment or facilities available.

The most common forms of physical restraint available are as follows:

Halter and lead shank with chain: The chain can be run either over or under the horse's nose to add a higher degree of control.

Creative physics: That is, using the horse's body to force the desired behavior. For example, holding up the left foreleg encourages a horse to keep its right foreleg on the ground so the veterinarian can examine it.

Twitch: This device was once thought to only distract the horse; however, it is now believed that it actually stimulates mechanoreceptors in the skin that activate a release of endorphins in the brain similar to those released during acupuncture. The most common types of twitches are the humane twitch, the rope twitch, and the chain twitch.

Stocks: Built on many larger farms as a form of restraint for physical examination, treatment, grooming, and breeding. Stocks restrict the movement of the horse by enclosing him on all sides. Most stocks are built out of tubular pipe, which reduces the risk of injury.

Chemical restraint: Many drugs are available for the restraint of horses. The drugs have a tranquilizing or sedative effect that makes many procedures much less stressful for the horse. Only a veterinarian should administer chemical restraints.

Riding Lessons

Riding Lessons may be private, semiprivate, or group. They may be a half-hour (private) or an hour (private, semiprivate, and group.) At some barns, students must arrive at least a half-hour before a lesson to tack up their horses; they usually must remain at least that long afterward to cool down and groom the horse and put away tack.

Adults, and even some busy junior riders, who cannot commit to a lesson each week at the same time are usually best served by scheduling private lessons individually, as time permits - but this approach will generally be more expensive per lesson. Missing too many group lessons (a different number at each barn, depending on how their program is set up) usually results in forfeiting them. In any case, it will certainly mean that the student lags behind the class in the skills they are developing.

If you are taking group lessons and miss one once in a while, taking a private lesson can help you catch up. If you want to progress faster than the class and can leap-frog into a more advanced class, you may decide that a few private lessons will aid you. Many students also take a private lesson or two before a show so that they can get individual, targeted help with the skills and procedures they will need at the show, in addition to what has been taught in class.

Dressage and reining lessons are almost always private. Few of these lessons are given on school horses because the aim of both disciplines is to demonstrate the capability, suppleness, athleticism, and obedience of a horse as the rider works to improve him. Some instructors teach very effective lesson by using semiretired "school masters," but most are given on the student's own horse.

Riding Pants

While many people happily ride in jeans, and, in fact, nearly all Western riders prefer jeans, most English riders favor breeches (worn with tall boots), jodhpurs (worn with ankle boots), or some type of leggings or tights.

Riding pants should be comfortable, fairly close-fitting, and somewhat stretchy. They should not be made of shiny or slippery fabric or you'll have trouble staying in the saddle. There are many different pant styles and colors available, including jeans with some stretch in the fabric. Pants designed especially for riding often have reinforced inner knees and seats to protect against wear.

Color is strictly a matter of preference, except in competitions where rules determine attire. For many riders, the color of their pants depends on the color of their horse. Darker colors don't show dirt and may be more practical - but perhaps not if you ride a gray horse.

If you do ride in jeans, make sure that they are not so tight that they hamper your getting on the horse, or so baggy that they bunch up and chafe your legs. Also be aware that thick inseams can be very uncomfortable and can rub your skin raw quite quickly.

Riding Sneakers

Sneakers that are specifically designed for riding. These are the only kind of sneakers that you should wear while on a horse. Any shoe without a heel can slide through a stirrup and get caught. If you fall, you could be dragged.

Regular sneakers aren't a good choice around horses even if you're not riding, as they offer very little protection against a sharp hoof.

Rolled Grains

Rolled or slightly crushed grains that are easier for the horse to chew and digest.

Rope Halter

Halters made of rope have some advantages over web halters. They are stronger, and the narrower rope gives more effective control with some horses. However, they can be harder for an inexperienced rider to fasten and, because the lead rope is fastened with a knot, they can be hard to remove quickly.

To put on a rope halter, slip the noseband over the horse's nose like a web halter, but tie the throatlatch instead of buckling or snapping.

Round Pen

A round pen is a useful training space if you have the room for one. Usually measuring 66 feet in diameter, the pen serves as a safe place to turn out young horses and provides a smaller space to work a horse from the ground as well as in the saddle.

For training young or very excitable horses, a breaking pen with a 35-foot diameter and solid, 7-foot high walls provides a place to work with no distractions. A fractious horse can't climb over the walls, but there's no quick way out for the trainer either.

Routine Care

Horses like to know what to expect and are happiest when kept on a regular schedule of feeding, grooming, turnout, and exercise. Of course, each day won't go in exactly the same way, but an overall plan for daily care will serve your horse best.

If you board your horse, become familiar with the barn routine and notify the barn manager if you need to change that routine. For example, if the horses are usually turned out in the mornings but you plan to ride then, you might request that your horse stay in his stall so you don't have to catch him. It's important that you respect the barn's daily schedule as much as possible.

If you take care of the horse yourself, you'll need to feed him at least twice a day and clean his stall every day. When you feed him, give hay first to take the edge off his appetite so that he's less likely to gobble his grain. Having hay in his digestive tract will also slow the passage of grain, thus increasing the efficiency of the feed.

You should groom your horse once a day or at least every other day, making sure you pick out his feet. After he's turned out, clean the stall and let it air out as much as possible.

In addition to a daily routine, your annual routine should include regular visits from your veterinarian for deworming and dental care and from your farrier for trimming and shoeing.

Rugs

A heavy horse blanket.

Run-In Shed

Although horses can live perfectly well outdoors without manmade shelter, they do need some place to get out of the wind and rain. If there isn't a natural windbreak in your pasture, a simple three-sided shed provides relief from the elements. Flies prefer hot, sunny areas, so having a shady spot can make a big difference in your horse's comfort level.

A run-in shed must be large enough to comfortably hold all the horses in the pasture (allow 142 square feet for each horse) with one side completely open to avoid injury if all the animals should decide to enter or leave the shed at once.

The shed should be built on the highest ground available and be faced away from the prevailing winds (usually coming from the north). T

The walls need to be sturdy, with no sharp protrusions or gaps, and the roof should pitch slightly away from the front of the structure to keep moisture from accumulating.

Run (Enclosure)

A turnout area designed specifically for exercise rather than grazing.

An enclosure measuring 20 by 100 feet is sufficient for your horse to trot, but if you want to encourage him to gallop, the pen should be at least 200 feet long, with enough room at the ends for him to turn around safely while moving fast.

Running Martingale

A piece of equipment used by riders in various disciplines to aid in the control of a horse that carries his head too high. It attaches to the girth/ cinch, runs between the front legs, and divides into two straps, each of which has a ring attached.

Each rein runs through a ring, thus providing a point of leverage to aid in teaching the horse to yield to pressure from the rider's hands. If adjusted properly, a running martingale does not put pressure on the horse's mouth, except when the horse raises his head too high.

Running Up Stirrup Leathers

When you dismount after a ride, make it a habit to immediately loosen your horse's girth and run up your stirrups by sliding the iron to the top of the back stirrup leather (the one closest to the saddle) and pulling the whole loop forward through the iron. This keeps the irons from flying around and striking your horse, and also makes it easier to put the saddle on and take it off.

Running up the stirrup leathers works only on English saddles. With a Western saddle, the stirrups hang free. When you tack up, loop the off stirrup over the saddle to get it out of the way.