BALKAN SADDLE CLUB ~ 2010
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Equine Terms A- F     Equine Terms G - L     Equine Terms M - R     Equine Terms S - Z     Cowboy's Dictionary     Horse's Dictionary     Horse Owner Dictionary      

A

Attire

Clothing; specifically, appropriate clothing for competitive events. Different classes have different guidelines.

Events vary in formality, but in general, English classes are more conservative than Western, and evening events are more formal than daytime events. The clothing of the rider should suit the class, complementing the horse and not distracting or detracting from his performance.  Riders with long hair should wear it pulled back in a neat bun; hair nets are recommended. For all riders, safe riding attire includes an ASTM/SEI-approved helmet and sturdy shoes or boots with a heel to keep the foot from sliding through the stirrup.

 
Australian Checker

A device designed to keep the bit high up in a horse's mouth and prevent him putting his tongue over the bit.

Also called the Australian nose-band, it is made up of rubber circles that fit around both ends of the bit, with strap extensions that join on top of the horse's nose and continue between the eyes and ears to the crownpiece.

 

 

B

Balance

Balance can refer to a horse's anatomical structure or to the posture and position of a rider. A balanced horse performs efficiently, moving in a smooth, even fashion.  To determine the degree of balance displayed by a horse, note the animal's skeletal structure. The horse has both vertical and horizontal balance. Vertical balance is determined by dividing the horse in to three parts with two vertical lines, perpendicular to the ground. The first is drawn through a point at the base of the horse's neck; the second is drawn through the point of the hip. A horse is said to have vertical balance if the three parts are relatively equal, with the forequarters being the widest and the midsection being the shortest. (The neck/head are the balancing arm of the horse's balance and thus should be long. The midsection includes the horse's back; a short back is stronger and can support more weight than a long back.) There is very little discrepancy between breeds with regards to breed ideals for vertical balance.

Balanced Seat

A fundamental approach to riding, wherein the rider's center of gravity corresponds to the horse's center of gravity.

The balanced rider also aligns his or her body in such a manner that a vertical line could be drawn from the ear down through the shoulder, point of the hip, and back of the heel.  The rider is able to stand in the stirrups while his or her calves remain motionless. An out-of-balance rider may fall off the house or cause the horse to stumble or tire prematurely.

 

Bandage

 

Gauze or cotton that protects a horse's wound from infection. It also holds the wounded area in the proper position for healing, prevents inflammation, keeps the area warm, prevents it from drying out, and protects tissues from bumps and bruises.

Equine bandages are multilayered and are changed every one to three days on a fresh wound. They are also used to protect a horse from cuts and bruises when trailering the animal over long distances.

Barn

A well-built horse barn is a pleasure for both owner and occupants. Typically, a horse barn consists of an appropriate number of stalls, a tack room, a feed storage room, and a work area or center aisle. The barn should offer sufficient ventilation and lighting; secure, non-slippery flooring and good drainage.

 

Drainage: A barn should be situated on relatively high ground, so it won't become inundated with water after every storm or snowmelt. When constructing a new barn, the site can be built up so it provides adequate drainage.

Flooring: Dirt is usually considered the best barn floor. Packed dirt provides sure footing and, in most cases, adequate drainage. Floors made of concrete become slippery when wet and are poor for drainage. They are also hard on the horse's legs. Wooden floors are softer, but they are high maintenance and can also become slippery. Rubber stall mats are recommended where you want better traction or an easier-to-clean surface, or if your horse may be lying down frequently, (such as a mare about to foal).

 

Lighting: Well-lit barns are safe and comfortable. Ideally, a light should be placed in each stall. Lights are also useful when placed at intervals above the center aisle and above tack and feed areas. They should be at least 8 feet off the ground so the horses cannot reach and break them. Housing lights in a wire cage provides additional protection. Skylights, windows, large sliding doors, and roof panels and vents can be excellent sources of natural light. Because they reflect light rather than absorbing it, light-colored walls and ceilings also help barn owners take advantage of available light.

 

Stalls: Ideally, each stall should accommodate the horse for which it is intended. Ponies are comfortable in a 10-foot-by-10-foot space, but full-sized horses generally require a stall that is 12 feet square. For foaling or nursing mares, a double stall is recommended. Stallions also benefit from a large stall.

 

Stall walls must be durable to withstand the kicking, rubbing, and general abuse that horses inflict upon them. Walls are commonly made of cement block, wood, or metal (but a horse can inure himself by kicking cement or by putting a hoof through metal). They should be smooth to prevent possible injury to the animal. Protruding splinters, nails, bolts, or sharp edges of any kind should be removed or covered. Experts recommend stalls at least eight feet high, with doors about four feet wide. Stall floors should be durable but relatively soft and comfortable. Among the preferred flooring materials are well-tamped dirt, clay, limestone, or a bluestone base.

If bars are used at the front or sides of the stalls, the spaces between the bars should be no wider than four inches, so the horse cannot get caught in the bars.

 

Ventilation: Ventilation is the movement of air through a barn. An average horse may produce 50 pounds of manure and 10 gallons of urine in a single day. Without ventilation, the barn air will become saturated with ammonia and other products that are released when waste materials decompose. These odors, as well as dust and humidity, pose respiratory threats to confined horses, but so can cold drafts. The trick is to build or adapt a barn that is well ventilated, but does not expose the horses to excessive drafts.

 

A window in each stall can simultaneously provide ventilation and light. Large, sliding doors at each end of a barn can do much the same. Roof vents and exhaust fans are additional ways of enhancing the exchange of air.

Bedding

Bedding for a stall or shed provides a horse with a comfortable surface on which to rest. Bedding can also preserve warmth in the stall, protect the horse from abrasions, and absorb much of the horse's urine.

 

Materials used for bedding also include straw, wood shavings and sawdust, shredded newspaper, and sand. Peanut hulls are used in some southern areas, where they are available at a reasonable cost.

 

Each bedding material offers advantages and disadvantages, but straw is the perennial favorite. If spread deeply enough, it is soft, warm and highly absorbent. However, it can be expensive. Wheat straw is preferable to oat or barley straw, as a horse is less likely to eat large quantities of wheat straw bedding (doing so can cause colic, which can be fatal).

 

Horse owners who use wood chips, shavings, or sawdust as bedding should avoid hardwoods. Some hardwoods - particularly black walnut, but also oak and hickory - can trigger toxic reactions in horses.

 

Whatever material is used, it's important to keep bedding clean and free of dust, mold, and sharp edges.

Bit Guard

A bit guard is a temporary device to keep a bit from pinching a horse's cheeks or lips. Two flat rubber circles fit around the ends of a bit between the skin and the bridle rings.

Bit

A bit is a metal mouthpiece that aids a rider in controlling the horse. It rests on a toothless, gummed portion of the horse's jawbone known as the bars. Manipulating the horse's reins moves the bit, causing a trained horse to respond as desired.

 

Selecting a Bit:
It's best to use the mildest bit that works effectively with an individual horse. Although hundreds of models are available, there are three basic types of bits.

 

Snaffles are considered the mildest of bits, and are most often recommended for beginning and pleasure riders. They are designed to apply pressure directly to the corners of a horse's mouth. Many snaffles are jointed at the center, but others feature multiple joints. Still others, known as straight snaffles or straight bits, are jointless.

 

Curbs are bits that work by applying leverage directly to the bars of the horse's mouth, used with a shank of varying lengths. The longer the shank, the greater the leverage and the more severe the action. Curb bits are used in conjunction with a chain or strap designed to fit beneath the horse's jaw. Combination, or Pelham, bits offer the rider the option of exerting pressure on either the corners of the mouth or the bars.

 

Bits come in a wide variety of sizes and thicknesses. The width of the horse's mouth at the owners should be used to determine the width of the bit. Five inches is the average width, but young horses and smaller breeds may need narrower bits, while large horses often need wider bits. As a general rule, a thicker bit is milder and more comfortable for the horse.

 

However, excessively thick bits may not fit comfortably into a given horse's mouth. The texture of a bit - its smoothness or sharpness - can also greatly influence the bit's comfort. Many horse owners have bits professionally fitted to ensure proper function and to prevent possible injury.

Blanket Clip

A body clip pattern that leaves hair on the legs and the area covered by a blanket. This clip is suitable for horses doing medium to hard work in cold weather.

 

 

Blankets and Blanketing

Horses kept at pasture year-round may never need blankets. In colder climates, they grow a thick winter coat that conserves heat and protects them against wind, moisture, and cold air. However, an outdoor horse that has been clipped or in poor health will need blanketing.

 

Horses that become excessively cold or wet may also need blankets. Turnout blankets are recommended in such cases. These blankets are entirely waterproof, fit snugly, and are cut in a way that allows freedom of movement.

 

Stalled horses that are ridden in cold weather also benefit from winter blankets that help them cool down gradually after a ride. Any horse whose coat has been clipped must be blanketed if he will be exposed to cold or wet weather, and horses should be blanketed after they have been given a bath in cold water.

 

Blankets are often used when trailering a horse to protect against drafts. However, overheating can occur in a closed trailer, so the horse's body temperature should be monitored. Blanketing the horse in two or more lightweight layers allows the handler to regulate the horse's temperature by removing or adding blankets one layer at a time.

 

It's a good idea to monitor a horse's body heat any time a blanket is used. A blanketed horse can become dangerously hot even in winter, if the day is warm or sunny or if the blanket does not wick moisture away from the body effectively.

Blocks, Salt and Protein

Salt and protein blocks provide nutrients that supplement a horse's primary diet. Most horses benefit from unrestricted access to a trace mineral salt block.

 

Molasses protein blocks are primarily useful for horses whose diets are unusually low in protein; access should be regulated.

 

A horse that overindulges in protein blocks can be subject to colic, dehydration, or diarrhea.

 

Horses can also benefit from calcium and phosphorous blocks, depending on their age and diet.

Bola or Bolo Tie

A bola or bolo tie is a narrow, braided string tie held in place with a decorative clasp or ornament, worn as part of Western attire.

Bosal

A noseband made of plaited rawhide that is part of the traditional hackamore bridle.

 

The bosal is used to control a horse in Western riding. It should be carefully fitted on a horse's head so that it will not chafe the jaw.

 

The front part should be positioned about four inches above the nostrils, and the rear part should not touch the jaw at all.

 

The term "bosal" is also used to indicate a bitless bridle.

Bot Block

A coarse stone used to remove the eggs of bot flies from a horse's hair, particularly its legs.

Bot Flies

The Gasterophilus, or bot fly, is a brown, hairy fly that resembles a bee.

 

Bot flies commonly lay their eggs on a horse's hair; the horse subsequently ingests the eggs by licking or nuzzling itself. The larvae hatch in the warm, moist conditions of the horse's mouth. They lodge at first in the gums, and later emerge and are swallowed by the horse. The larvae mature in the horse's stomach, eventually passing lout in the animal's manure to become adult flies and begin their life cycle anew.

 

Infestations of the larvae can cause stomach ulcers, and a severe infestation may lead to unthriftiness, colic, poor appetite, and even death. Swarms of adult bot flies can also cause a horse to bolt or strike at the flies with his forelegs, a potentially dangerous situation for handlers.

 

Successful control of these parasites requires a two-pronged approach.

 

Horses should be give an effective boticide after the first eggs appear as clusters of small orange or yellow dots on the horse's coat. The treatment should be repeated every two months until bot fly season (which varies depending on local climate) has ended.

 

In addition to the medication, horsekeepers should regularly scrape the eggs off a horse's coat with a bot block and a bot knife. Alternatively, the flies can be controlled externally by washing the horse with warm water or applying a warm cloth directly to the eggs. This forces the eggs to hatch prematurely, and the larvae quickly die.

Box Stall

A box stall is any stall in which a horse can move about freely.

 

A 12-foot-by-12-foot box stall is roomy enough for standard-sized horses, but foaling mares and stallions often need additional space

 

Ponies and small horses are generally comfortable in a smaller stall.

 

Stall walls must be free of sharp edges and protrusions to avoid injury to the horse; they must also be durable enough to withstand kicking, rubbing, chewing, and the effects of decomposing waste.

Bran

Bran is a by-product of milled grains that can provide additional bulk and fiber in a horse's diet.

 

Bran is high in protein and can serve as a mild laxative. However, it is also high in phosphorus, a nutrient that can prevent calcium absorption and trigger bone-related problems in horses that eat excessive amounts.

T

herefore, bran should not be fed to young horses, whose bones are developing; nor should bran comprise more than 10 to 15 percent of the diet of a healthy adult horse.

 

A wheat-bran mash, consisting of bran and hot water, has traditionally been recommended for horses that are old, sick, or dentally disadvantaged. It is also fed in sub-zero temperatures to ensure healthy bowel functions.

Breakaway Halter

A safety halter designed to literally "break away" if a horse gets caught on something while in the stall or at pasture.

Breakaway Rope

A rope that is tied to a saddle horn with a length of string.

Breakaway Roping

A timed calf roping event in which the rider ties one end of the rope to the saddle with a length of string. The rider ropes the calf as quickly as possible and stops the horse.

 

A flagman signals time when the rope is pulled away from the saddle horn. A skilled breakaway roper can complete the event in as little as three seconds.

Breeches

Comfortable pants designed for riding. They are available in a wide assortment of styles and cuts, ranging from skintight to flared bottoms.

 

Riding breeches are stretchy for easy mounting and freedom of movement when riding. Most feature reinforced patches on the inside of the calves.

 

These knee patches help the rider maintain a safe position, protect the knees from bruising, and enhance the durability of the breeches.

Bridle

A bridle is a piece of tack consisting of leather or nylon straps or cords that are stitched together. Bridles, which are most frequently used in conjunction with a bit, are secured around the head of the horse, and they are designed to aid the rider in controlling the horse.

 

English and Western-style bridles are the most commonly used types. Bridles without bits are known as hackamores or bosals.

 

Although bridle parts may be sold separately, the typical bridle includes cheek pieces, brow piece, crownpiece, throat latch, bit, and reins. English bridles also include a cavesson or noseband.

 

A bridle should fit the horse comfortably and be free of cracks, dryness, loosened or rotted stitching, and other damage that could make it fall apart during use.

 

Although a certain degree of adjustability is built into bridles, it may be useful before buying one to measure the distance from one corner of the horse's mouth over the top of the head to the opposite corner of the mouth. This measurement can be compared to the head strap of the bridle to ensure proper fit.

Brushing

An important aspect of grooming a horse that helps remove dirt, dry skin, grass and manure stains, and shedding hair.

 

Handlers typically use a stiff-bristled dandy brush on the larger areas of a horse's coat.

 

An assortment of medium-bristled body brushes can provide further cleaning, and a soft-bristled brush will remove dirt from the horse's head. After the application of a conditioner or detangling product, brushes can be used to smooth the tail and mane.

Butt Bar

A bar placed behind a horse when the animal is being trailered or is in stocks.

Rear-end contact with the bar encourages the horse to stay in place. A horse may also lean on the bar in order to maintain his balance while trailering.

 

 

 

C

 

California-style Bit

A loose-shanked bit that allows riders to direct their horses with a light touch on the reins.

Calk

A tapered piece of a horseshoe that points downward and is designed to prevent slipping.

Catch Rope

A rope that ends in a loop and is used for catching and immobilizing cattle.

Cavalletti

A series of parallel poles or rails that are placed on the ground or on supporting logs, spaced apart at a distance roughly equivalent to a horse's trotting stride.

 

Riding instructors use the construction to prepare their students for higher-level riding. Students gain control skills and awareness by riding in a straight line down this horizontal "ladder."

 

The cavalletti is also an exercise in agility for the horse.

Chain-Link Fencing

Mesh or woven-wire fencing that is highly effective at confining domestic animals while keeping other animals out.

 

A chain-link fence can be used effectively with horses; however, the sharp edges at the top and bottom should be covered to protect the horses from injury.

Chain Twitch

A device, consisting of a chain lop attached to a wooden handle, used to subdue or restrain a horse.

 

The loop is placed around the horse's upper lip and is then tightened by twisting the handle. It typically causes the horse no discomfort.

 

In fact, application of the twitch triggers the release of endorphins, brain chemicals that calm the horse and relieve pain.

Chaps

Along with a cowboy hat and boots, chaps are standard Western riding apparel. Made of tough but supple leather, suede, or cowhide, chaps protect the rider's legs and jeans from thorns and brush, and to a certain extent, dirt, rain, and rope burns.

 

Chaps also help riders maintain a secure seat in the saddle. They come in three basic styles - batwings, chinks, and shotgun - and can be as plain or as fancy as the wearer likes (or can afford).

 

Batwings are wide, full-length chaps that drag on the ground and offer the most protection.

 

Chinks fit loosely like batwings but come just below the knee and are usually fringed at the ends.

 

Shotgun chaps fit snugly around the length of the leg and are zipped into place; they can be fringed or not.

 

Chest Bar

A chest-level bar placed in front of a horse when the animal is being trailered or is in stocks.

 

Contact with the bar encourages the horse to stay in place within the trailer while allowing him to lower his head.

Chrome

White markings on a horse, such as blaze, stockings, and so on; the term is most commonly used when a horse has a lot of white markings.

 

Some breed standards consider chrome ideal; others view it as undesirable.

Cinch

A girth strap or band used to secure a saddle to a horse, primarily in Western riding.

 

Traditional cinches are made of mohair, but they may also be made of nylon, cotton, rayon, neoprene, or leather.

 

Back cinches are sometimes also used to hold the back of the saddle in place. These are commonly made of leather.

Cleaning

Ideally, an occupied stall should be cleaned once a day to ensure freshness of bedding, minimal odor, and a healthy environment for the horse. To ensure safety, turn the horse out before cleaning the stall. If this is not possible, be sure to tie the horse.

 

Begin the cleaning routing by removing manure and soiled bedding with a manure fork or pitchfork, leaving as much of the clean bedding in the stall as possible. Next, use a shovel to remove bedding that is wet or packed down. Now, sweep dry bedding over wet areas to soak up any remaining liquid from the floor. Then push all bedding against the stall walls and let the floor dry. If necessary, apply an odor-control product to wet spots.

 

When the floor is dry, finish the cleaning task by adding new bedding as needed and redistributing all bedding. Place the cleanest bedding in the horse's rest area. "Stripping the stall" by removing all bedding and replacing it with fresh material is recommended on a weekly basis.

Coat Conditioners

Coat conditioners can improve the shininess, manageability, and moisture content of your horse's coat. Some products also contain sunscreen to protect the horse's skin.

 

When using a conditioner, be sure to dilute and apply it according to the label instructions. Some products must be rinsed out following application; others do not require rinsing.

Complete Feeds

Also known as complete rations, processed feeds that offer horses complete nutrition in a convenient package.

 

They come in water, pellet, or cake form and comprise alfalfa, hay, grains, and minerals.

 

The quality of these feeds can vary. Some crumble easily, creating a great deal of powder waste; others simply don't offer the horse sufficient "chew time," which can result in cribbing, or wood chewing.

Concentrates

Feeds that are low in fiber but high in digestible nutrients, including grains, consisting of by-products, and oilmeals.

 

A horse should not be fed a diet that consists only of concentrates and water, as the animal's digestive system also requires significant quantities of fiber or roughage. The customary source of roughage is hay.

 

Some common concentrates are barley, bran (made from wheat), commercially prepared rations (content varies), corn, cottonseed meal, linseed meal, oats, roasted soybeans, sorghum, soybean meal, sweet feed (a mixture of oats, corn, bran, pellets, and molasses), and wheat.

Cooler

A blanket dropped over a horse to help him cool off gradually after a bath or vigorous activity.

 

Although relatively light, coolers are often made of wool or wool blends and can cause overheating on hot days.

Corn, as a Feed

A grain that is considered a concentrate because of its high nutrient content. Corn is particularly high in carbohydrates, which provide energy, but its protein value is low.

 

A horse's diet should not consist exclusively of concentrates, although they can be useful as supplements to a diet of hay or grasses. Too much corn in the diet may cause a horse to become high-strung or difficult to manage, due to the abundance of energy provided by the feed. It can also lead to excessive weight gain.

 

Corn is commonly fed in shelled form, but some horse owners feed it directly from the cob. Younger and older horses may have trouble chewing whole corn. In such cases, the corn can be served rolled or cracked.

 

All corn should be dry and a year or more old before it is fed, to minimize the chance that a horse will consume mold- or fungus-infested kernels. Poisoning from spoiled corn can be fatal.

Corner Feeder

Hay and grains can be fed with a corner feeder, which is mounted in the corner of a stall.

Corner feeders should be mounted low enough to allow the horse to eat in a comfortable, natural position.

Corral

Corrals are turnout areas designed to confine horses while providing them with an opportunity for moderate exercise. They are generally square or round, and are often attached to barns for convenience.

 

A corral should be more than an effective containment area; it should also be a safe, open place in which to romp. A durable perimeter fence 5 to 6 feet high is the standard, with no sharp edges or protruding nails.

 

Be aware that clutter on the ground, or rough surfaces, may invite injury. Size is also a factor; the possibility of injury increases as the size of the enclosure decreases. A typical corral is 1,600 square feet.

 

Covers

 

Various kinds of horse coverings, including sheets, blankets, coolers, and rugs.

 

This term can also mean the act of breeding a mare.

Cradle

A collar-like device placed on a horse's neck.

 

The purpose of the cradle is to limit movement of the head, preventing the horse from nipping or licking his body and, more commonly, from chewing on bandages or blankets.

Crop

A short riding stick or whip used to reinforce leg aids. Under most circumstances, riders do not need to carry a crop.

 

If one is necessary, it should be held in the palm of ones hand and applied only if the horse does not respond to leg aids.

 

The crop should be dropped at the first indication of friskiness or odd behavior from the horse, as the horse may have become spooked by a glimpse of the crop.

Cross-tying

Tying a horse on both sides of its head with ropes or light chains. The tie on either side should extend from the halter to a sturdy wall, rail, or post, and the snaps used to attach the ropes should allow for quick release in case the horse should panic.

 

Cross ties are often used while working on a horse in its stall, but the horse can also be trained to stand calmly while cross-tied in alleys or barn aisles.

 

By limiting side-to-side motion, cross ties diminish the likelihood of injury to both horse and handler, allowing the handler to groom the horse, work on its feet, provide medical treatment, or perform other procedures.

Crupper

A strap used to hold the saddle or harness in its proper place.

 

The crupper strap attaches to the saddle or harness, loops backward under the tail, then extends back. Crupper straps are frequently used for trail riding.

Curry/Curry-comb

To groom a horse's coat using a curry comb. The comb itself is a round or rectangular tool usually made of rubber or plastic.

 

It has stubby, semi-pointed "teeth" that serve to loosen dirt, hair, and dander for later removal with brushes.

 

It also is used to remove hard-packed dirt and debris from the coat, stimulating oil glands; thus, it is a vital part of grooming for a healthy coat.

 

A curry comb is applied with a vigorous, circular rubbing motion.

 

 

D

Dandy Brush

A stiff-bristled brush used to remove dirt, loose hair, and scurf from a horse's coat.

 

The brush, sometimes known as a mud brush, is applied with short strokes and a whisking action.

 

The bristles should be cleaned periodically with a curry comb.

Dental Care

The primary means of caring for your horse's teeth includes having them examined regularly by a veterinarian or equine dentist. Horses two to four years of age should be examined two times per year, or three times if they are in training or give you cause for alarm. Other horses can generally get by with an annual exam, although twice-a-year checkups may be recommended for elderly horses, as well.

 

Horses are not prone to cavities, but this does not mean they are free of dental problems. A common problem in younger horses is retained caps, in which the horse's "baby" teeth do not properly detach from the gums and fall out.

 

A veterinarian may need to remove the caps in order to prevent gum inflammation and create room for new adult teeth to grow in properly.

 

In many, but not all, young horses, premolars known as wolf teeth erupt along the upper jaw. These can cause the horse's lip to become painfully pinched between the wolf teeth and the bit, so they are routinely removed by veterinarians.

 

At about age three, a horse may be subject to impacted teeth - emerging adult teeth that are pinched by existing teeth and cannot grow upward. The problem is generally self-correcting, but in some cases impacted teeth must be removed surgically. A "tooth bump" on the lower jaw of a horse can indicate the presence of an impacted tooth. If the bump swells rapidly or is tender to the touch, contact your veterinarian.

 

Uneven wear can cause teeth to develop sharp points or ridges. Under normal circumstances, a veterinarian or equine dentist can remove these by filing the teeth with a rasp - a process known as floating. If left untreated, teeth with sharp ridges or points can make chewing a painful and/or inefficient activity, leaving the horse susceptible to starvation, colic, and impaction.

 

As a horse ages, he may begin to lose teeth or wear them down to the gums. This can also interfere with chewing and digestion. If your older horse begins to lose weight or eat slowly, consult a veterinarian.

Direct Rein

A method of using the rein in which the rider communicates directly to the horse via his mouth.

 

For example, to turn a horse right, the rider increases pressure on the right rein and the horse responds by turning right.

 

In contrast, a neck rein communicates via the neck by laying the left rein on the left side of the neck, resulting in a turn to the right.

Disinfectant, for Clippers

Clipper disinfectant products are recommended any time your horse shows signs of a skin infection, and any time the clippers you're using have been used on other horses.

 

Disinfecting the clipper blades helps minimize the possibility of transmitting infection from one horse to another.

Double Bridle

A bridle that enables use of two bits; a curb bit, and a small snaffle bit called a bradoon.

 

The bradoon lifts, and the curb aids in flexion. These bridles are most commonly used on highly trained horses in the dressage and saddle seat classes.

 

Double Tree

 

A swivel-type device used to connect two swingletrees in harness.

 

This is used to connect side-by-side horses when hitched in multiple-horse driving teams.

 

Dressing Rooms

Many horse trailers come equipped with walk-in dressing rooms, which may double as tack rooms.

 

The typical dressing room adds about four feet to the length of a trailer, but it provides a handy, secure place to store essential supplies - and, of course, a private dressing space.

Driving Bridle

A bridle designed for use when driving (rather than riding) horses. These bridles include cheek pieces, brow band, crownpiece, throat latch, and reins, and they are available in recognizably English and Western configurations.

 

Traditionally, blinders and shadow rolls were added to driving bridles. These special pieces of tack limit a horse's field of vision, minimizing the possibility that the horse will become frightened by something he sees.

Driving Tack

Tack used when driving horses, all of which generally fits into either the light harness or draft harness category.

 

Driving tack can include a halter, bridle, bits, reins, and the harness, which consists of the collar, straps, and a number of smaller pieces.

Dropped Noseband

A corrective device to be used only with a snaffle bridle and by experienced horsemen. If used improperly, this noseband can cause permanent damage to the sensitive nasal bone and create breathing problems that hinder performance.

 

It aids in keeping a horse's mouth quiet and responsive, especially when the horse tends to hang his mouth open, chew excessively, or flip his tongue over the bit.

 

The front should be four fingers' width above the nostrils and the back should rest in the chin groove. It is best to hold the front in place by attaching it to the cheek pieces.

 

Beware that the noseband not be allowed to rub or pinch the horse's mouth. It should be loose enough to allow the horse to relax his jaw, but snug enough to aid in solving the problem it's being used for.

 

Dutch Collar

 

An alternative to the neck collar, the Dutch collar is designed to fit over a horse's chest.

 

Variations include the breast collar or heart collar.

 

The collar is a primary part of the driving harness

 

 

E

 

Egg-Bar Shoe

A special oval-shaped horseshoe designed to help problem hooves. Unlike standard shoes, the egg-bar shoe provides support beneath the heel, which is especially beneficial when a horse has navicular disease, collapsed heels, underrun hooves, and flat soles. Thoroughbreds and warmbloods are prone to these problems.

 

Egg-bar shoes are also used to give more support on soft ground. However, if your horse is wearing these shoes, do not turn him out into a muddy area. Mud, manure, straw and other debris easily collect inside the egg-bar shoe. For this reason, it is especially important to clean the horse's hooves daily.

 

Many competing horses wear egg-bar shoes in the ring. These include hunters, jumpers, dressage horses, cutting horses, and reining horses. Increasingly, pleasure and trail horses wear them as well, as owners learn of their benefits.

Electric Fencing

As a rule, electric fencing is neither visible enough nor sturdy enough to use as a primary fence for horses. Electric "tape" solves many of these concerns, however, making electric fence a more viable option. There also are a number of secondary applications that can be useful for horsekeepers.

 

You may want to use electric fencing in conjunction with a more substantial fence, such as a wood fence. A strand or two of electrified wire strung above a wood fence can prevent horses from chewing on, leaving on, or rubbing against the primary fence, thereby prolonging its life and reducing the need for maintenance. A strand of electric fencing along the inside of a barbed-wire fence can keep horses away from the potentially injurious barbed wire. And electric fencing can be an effective means of temporarily dividing pasture areas, keeping your horses grazing in one area while another area is allowed to grow.

 

For maximum effectiveness (in most situations), string electric fencing 30 to 36 inches above the ground. Immediately after turning on the electrical charge, encourage your horses to investigate the fencing and learn about the shock that accompanies contact.

 

It's important to check and maintain electric fencing. It is subject to shorting from contact with vegetation, metal, or just about anything that touches it. You can use an electric fence tester to ensure that an electrical charge is present. Trim grass, bushes, and trees regularly to keep them away from the fencing and to prevent malfunction.

English Bridle

There are several different types of English bridle. The most common are snaffle, pelham, and full bridles.

 

All have similar construction that includes the following: a crownpiece (top piece of leather that runs behind the horse's ears, includes the throatlatch and upon which the cheek pieces are attached); cheek pieces (which attach the bit to the crownpiece); a noseband (styles vary with discipline); a throatlatch (which runs from ear to ear under the throat and prevents the bridle from being pulled off the front of the face); reins (plain, braided, laced, plaited - single or double, depends on the horse's needs).

 

A snaffle bridle holds one snaffle bit, which has a single rein attached.

 

A pelham bridle holds one pelham bit, which usually has two reins attached for more precise control; however, a converter can be used for novice riders who can handle only a single rein with confidence.

 

A full bridle holds two bits, a small snaffle (also known as a bridoon), and a curb, with a single rein attached to each; thus, it is a bridle that requires more education and experience to master.

English Saddle

The kind of saddle used in English riding. Although there are several styles, English saddles are generally smaller than Western saddles and have no saddle horn.

 

Within the English category, you'll find all-purpose or combination saddles for general riding; jumping saddles designed to support the forward riding position required for jumping events; dressage saddles with extended flaps and stirrups; and flat saddles with shallow seats, which are used primarily in saddle seat riding.

 

 

 

F

 

Facilities

Facilities for horses range from simple, fenced pastures with run-in sheds, which provide shelter in hot and cold weather, to riding and precipitation, to riding and training facilities with multiple-stall stables, indoor and outdoor arenas, roundpens, hot walkers, and even swimming pools for rehabilitation of injured horses.

 

However, the basic needs of every horse are as follows: fresh water in sufficient amounts; food; shelter for inclement (including very hot) weather; space for exercise outdoors; daily observation and, if needed, care by a knowledgeable person.

 

Note that if a horse is recuperating from an injury or surgery, he should be rested in a stall large enough for him to walk around, lie down, and get up easily. When you are designing a place to live for horses, there are several basic considerations that should go into your blueprint:

 

Each horse should have a stall that fits, so a barn is best built with more than one size stall available. A pony may live happily in a 10' x 10' stall. Most horses will do fine in a 12' x 12' stall, although large thoroughbreds and warmbloods, and even the racing type of large quarter horse, are bulkier animals that would do best in a 14' x 14' enclosure. Mares with foals, too, need at least a 14' x 14' space to live in; better still, build one pair of stalls side by side with a removable portion, and remove the partition when your mare has her foal.

 

Pasture is necessary for exercise, sunshine, and food. A good pasture will be large enough to support the number of horses assigned to it. It will offer them grasses, a mixture of clover (except alsike clover, which can be toxic) and other legumes. The pasture should be of sufficient size and variety to prevent overgrazing of the field. It should also be uncontaminated with plants poisonous to horses. It should be checked regularly to be sure it is free of holes (from burrowing animals and other causes), sharp objects, and slick spots. Naturally, the fields should have fences that are both safe for horses and sufficient to keep them contained.

 

The field, pasture, or paddock should also contain a water supply sufficient for the number of horses using it, unless the horses are turned out for no more than a couple of hours at a time and then let back into their stalls for fresh water. The outdoor water supply can be in troughs, either self-filled or manually filled, or fresh streams, ponds, lakes, or rivers on or adjacent to the property.

 

Some horses prefer to live most of their lives outside. Some farms acquire extra horses that cannot be accommodated in the barn. And some farms offer field board. In any case, provisions must be made for the horses to shelter themselves from the worst weather, and a run-in shed can be the answer.

 

These three-sided sheds should be large enough to accommodate all the horses living or grazing in the field, about 140 square feet per horse, which will give them room to jostle for position. Like the barn the shed should be built on high ground to allow for drainage and the open side should be toward the south, to keep cold north winds out in winter. The proof should slope toward the closed back side so puddles do not form in front of the shed.

 

Most horses will drink between 8 and 12 U.S. gallons of water per day, and more if they are in strenuous work, the weather is hot, or their feed is primarily dry hay. They may drink less in cold weather and when they have abundant, lush pasture available. In the stall, water should be provided in buckets kept full at all times, with refillings no less than two times a day in warm weather.

 

Water in pastures and paddocks may be provided in troughs that are filled regularly, or by lean ponds, streams, and rivers. If you provide water in buckets and troughs, that are filled regularly, or by clean ponds, streams, and rivers. If you provide water in buckets and troughs, be sure to clean them frequently to prevent water quality from declining as horses drop food bits into them. These will disintegrate and cause bacteria to grow.

 

If you live in a cold climate, providing drinkable water year round is a big challenge. First, you'll have to bury water lines at least 3 to 5 feet deep to prevent their freezing. The hydrants, however, and the pipe leading out of the ground to them, might also freeze.

 

Depending on climate, wrapping the pipe with insulating material might be enough; but in some places, an electric heating element will be needed. Remember, any wiring in a barn is a potential hazard, all the more so around water. Drain hoses after every use and/or store them in a heated area.

Feeder

More often called hay mangers, these fan-shaped metal bars are attached to the corner of a stall. Hay is dropped into the feeder and the horse can pull it out a few wisps at a time.

 

Feeders should not be set too high; the natural position for a horse to reach fresh roughage is with his neck bent toward the ground.

 

In fact, if you keep the stall very clean and there is little danger of the horse snorting up sand or sawdust as he eats his hay (for instance, you use wood shavings for bedding), then it might be best not to use a feeder. Instead, put the hay on the floor of the stall.

Feeding and Nutrition

A horse's feed and nutrition have an enormous impact on his ability to do the job he is trained to do, on his mental attitude, and on his longevity. Because a horse has only one stomach and a cecum (rather than the four stomachs of a cow, for example), a horse must be fed so that his simple digestive system is not overwhelmed and its processes interrupted, which can result in a dangerous colic. The following are some considerations concerning equine feeding and nutrition:

 

Activity level
A working horse needs more and higher quality feed than a nonworking or retired horse. An idle horse weighing 1,000 pounds needs about 25 pounds of hay daily to maintain his weight and normal bodily functions, plus minimal activity. (Of course, this may vary from individual to individual, with some horses being "easy keepers," and others needing more food for maintenance.)

 

A working horse will need more hay, and he should be fed a sweet feed or pelleted feed as well. Some horses also require supplements of vitamins and minerals; if your horse loses condition or weight, ask your vet to recommend a diet and supplements to help.

 

Age
Older horses, even those in light work, may need supplements to maintain condition and weight. Very old horses may need special softer food, as their teeth are worn down. Older broodmares, particularly, may need special rations and supplements recommended by the vet to keep them and their fetuses in good condition.

 

Colic
A severe colic can kill a horse. In recent years, surgery to correct torsion has been developed, but it is expensive and recuperation is lengthy. It is best to avoid colic by practicing good horse husbandry. If you do suspect colic, however, call the vet immediately.

 

Minerals
Minerals are required in small amounts by all living things to maintain health. Horses obtain minerals through the grasses and grains they eat as well as through supplements. The essential minerals for horses are calcium, phosphorus, magnesium, sodium, chlorine, and potassium.

Horses need trace amounts of iodine, cobalt, copper, iron, zinc, manganese, and selenium. Various soils provide, through hay and grasses, many of these minerals in varying quantities. In some regions, supplements are need of one or another mineral; in other regions, supplementation would cause overdose. Veterinarians can help determine specific needs in your area.

 

Overfeeding
Overfeeding can be just as bad as underfeeding. A fat horse has more weight to carry and may not have the energy he needs for the work he does. Overfeeding of supplements can be deadly. Keep an eye on your horse's condition. If he loses weight during work, ask your veterinarian before adding foods or supplements to a normal horse diet of grain, hay, and pasture forage. If the horse gains weight during a lay up, cut his rations to the amount that will allow him to maintain his weight in minimal or no work.

 

Pasture
Probably the best food for horses is what grows fresh from the earth. However, because we generally keep a greater number of horses on pastures much smaller than they would roam naturally, pasture must be supplemented with prepared feeds (grain and hay), and the pasture itself must be kept in edible condition.

Ask your county extension agent for the proper mix of grasses to plant for horses in your region. Then let the pasture grow to about five inches in height before turning horses out onto it. Allow them to nibble it down to two inches, then rotate them to a different pasture and let it grow again before reintroducing the horses. Careful pasture management will prevent the bald or muddy spots that allow weeds to take hold and destroy pasture.

 

Pelleted feeds
There are three types of pellets; grain, hay, and a combination of hay and grain with vitamin and mineral supplements added. Generally, pellets are convenient because they are dry and not dusty or sticky. They are easy to transport and easier than sweet feed to keep vermin out of; they have less of an odor and are not sticky, so they store well in covered bins. The problem is that pelleted feeds don't provide much roughage; if you use them, supplement the rations with hay and/or pasture.

 

Protein
Protein is needed for growth and for building and repairing muscle and other tissues. Horses may need extra protein when they are growing, pregnant, nursing a foal, living in cold weather, or in spring, to help them shed out their winter coats. Because protein creates heat, horses working hard in the summer should be fed extra protein cautiously.

 

Salt
Salt, or sodium chloride, is essential for equine health. Grasses do not provide it; usually, it is added to commercial feeds. A horse doing minimal work will need about half a pound of salt per week, depending on how much he sweats. Because excess salt is simply flushed from the system, as long as the horse has sufficient water available, it is safe to provide free access to salt. Usually, blocks are hung in rack in the stall or just set on the floor for the horse to lick at will. Large blocks can be used in pastures for field-boarded horses.

 

Supplements
Horses lived for eons without supplements; in fact, without anything but the grasses they found where they lived and roamed. However, keeping them in artificial conditions in which they cannot go and forage for themselves means we have to be sure to supply the things nature would have provided. We do this generally through scientifically prepared supplements. Technically, grain is a supplement to a wild horse's diet of grass, water, and the minerals he consumes in his natural food.

 

Trace minerals
These are minerals needed in very small amounts for excellent health, and include iodine, cobalt, copper, iron, zinc, manganese, and selenium.

 

Vitamins
Vitamins are organic compounds needed in small amounts by every living creature for normal body function. Horses can obtain virtually all the vitamins they need if they are kept on good pasture and not worked beyond the limits of the energy found in the forage they eat there. If a horse is partially pastured and partially grain and hay fed (particularly if he does a substantial amount of work) it is necessary to analyze his rations and his condition to decide if any supplemental vitamins are needed and which ones.

 

Water
Water is just as essential for equine digestion and metabolism as it is for humans. Horses will generally drink water periodically while grazing. It is also essential to provide free access to water while they are eating food in their stalls, despite the old-fashioned belief that drinking during or just after eating will wash grain through the stomach too fast.

In fact, water is more important for horses fed hay and grain. Insufficient water intake can lead to a variety of digestive disorders; some are fatal. The only time to withhold water is when the horse is overheated; at this time, offer him just a small amount of warm water (to avoid cold-water colic). Offer free access to water once he has cooled down.

 

Weighing feed
Rations should be weighed rather than "eyeballed." Feeding flakes of hay is tricky because not all hay is created equal; some balers bale tightly, and their flakes weigh more than flakes from a loose baler. A minimally active horse needs about 25 pounds of hay, in two or three feedings, per day.

 

Weigh a bale of each new batch of hay and divide to see how many flakes of that hay it takes to equal 25 pounds. Not all grain is equal, either. A bushel of corn weighs nearly twice as much as a bushel of oats Weigh each new feed mixture, whether homemade or commercial, to see how much your standard measure of that feed weighs and then calculate the volume of that feed needed to supply what your horse requires. Each time you change your formula or change commercial rations, weigh again to determine how many scoops equal the pounds needed for good health.

Feeding Equipment

Stable-kept horses, and even those on paddock or pasture board, require various feeding equipment to be sure they get the benefit of hay, grain, and supplements you provide.

 

Here is a list of basic equipment for any stall:

 

  • Two 10-gallon water buckets, wall-hung with snaps for removal and cleaning
  • A feed bucket, either corner-fitted and hung or a feeding pan for the stall floor for horses that won't eat properly if their feed is above ground
  • A salt-block holder
  • A hay manger, corner-hung or flat-hung (optional)

    •  

  • For stall and paddock boarders, provide the following
  • A large water trough, always at least 1/3 full
  • A feed bucket, firmly attached to the fence for each horse that gets grain; place them far enough apart to avoid fights at mealtime
  • A clean place to distribute flakes of hay, away from the mud and manure that can build up in some paddock areas
  • A container placed in the field to hold a large salt-block, which horses may lick at will.

    • Fences

    The obstacles a horse jumps in hunter and jumper shows. Each discipline has its own variety of fences. In hunter classes or tests based on how horses might approach fences in open fields, the fences resemble actual fences, gates, and other obstacles found on farms and estates - painted board fences, natural wood fences, stone or brick walls, chicken coops, hedges, and brush.

     

    In the show jumping ring, the obstacles are more varied, more colorful, higher, and wider. The fences may include jumps constructed of two sets of rails, one behind the other (oxer); the same type with the poles set unevenly (uneven oxer); or in a fan arrangement (fan jump).

     

    There may be three sets of rails, one behind the other, for a triple-bar jump. There may also be a set of three rails with the central set higher than those on the other ends; this is called a hogback jump. There might also be solid planks (verticals), and some jumps might even have an artificial pool of water up to twelve feet wide beneath them. Any variation of a hunter fence may also be used.

    Fencing Materials

    The three requirements for fencing for horses are strength, safety, and cost-effectiveness. These characteristics bear evolution by each farm owner or manager and will also take into account the type of horses to be fenced in: for example, energetic, high-strung young horses or older, retired draft horses; stallions, mares, or geldings. The following is a list of types of fencing, along with notations about each materials uses, benefits, and disadvantages:

     

    Electric Fencing
    This is a tape or smooth wire that can keep horses on one side of it - if they are taught to respect it. To teach a horse to obey electric fencing, entice him to touch it with his nose. Still, when in a gallop or when frightened, a horse may simply run though the fence. And if the power goes off, there's no protection.

     

    Electric fencing is best used in conjunction with other types of fencing to prevent over-the-fence battles, or to subdivide larger, more substantially fenced pastures into smaller paddocks; then, it would matter less if horses broke through it as they would still be contained in the larger area by solid fencing.

     

    Net or diamond mesh wire
    Safer than barbed wire, this material can be stretched and braced between poles; using "no climb" netting in small squares or diamond shapes will keep even small horses and foals from getting a foot stuck in it.

     

    PVC (polyvinyl chloride) tubing
    PVC tubing can be used for fencing. Usually, it comes with a 15- or 20-year warranty. About twice the cost of wood fencing, it is generally lower maintenance; horses won't chew it and termites won't eat it.

     

    Rubber or nylon tape
    These strips are run through upright posts and then stretched. The tape may occasionally need restretching. The advantage is that when a horse runs into the fence, the tape is quite forgiving and inflicts less damage. The disadvantage? Horses might chew the tape and get indigestible fibers lodged in the gut. Under the right circumstances, tapes can be cost-effective.

     

    Smooth wire
    Twelve- or thirteen-gauge barbless wire can be stretched between poles to make an adequate boundary fence. Topping it with a rail or pipe, or running a strand of electric fencing inside it, makes smooth wire workable. Using smooth wire in smaller paddocks may cause horses to lean over and through it, however. To avoid life-threatening injuries, mark the fence in a manner visible to horses.

     

    Steel pipe
    More durable than wood, especially if coated with a rust-free paint, steel fencing needs fewer uprights than wood. But it has drawbacks. Steel pipe is unforgiving if a horse runs into or kicks it. And there have been a few cases of horses dying when they got their heads stuck between rails of pipe. Wherever you would like a fail-safe fence, though - at road boundaries or for stallion paddocks - steel pipe can be a good choice.

     

    Wood fencing
    Wood is a traditional type of fencing particularly three- or four-board fences painted white, brown, or black. Wood is sturdy, durable, and aesthetically pleasing. Boards should be nailed to the posts on the inside of the post, facing into the paddock or pasture, making it harder for a horse to run through; the board would have to break rather than tear out by the nails.

     

    Horses can damage this fencing, though, by kicking, running into, leaning over, or chewing it. It is helpful to run an electric fence wire inside the top rail of wooden fencing to eliminate most of these possibilities. Wooden fences require a lot of upkeep, from replacing boards to repainting and weatherproofing. Occasionally, an upright post will snap and need labor-intensive replacement.

    Fender

    The rectangular or triangular panel of leather that hangs down from a Western saddle. This piece holds the stirrup and protects the rider's leg

    Flooring in Barns

    Although horses spend only a few hours a day lying down, they spend numerous hours supporting a half-ton of weight on four feet smaller than the average man's two feet. For this reason, flooring and floor quality are vitally important in barns.

     

    Dirt floors are often preferred because they are easy to keep dry, providing some natural drainage into the earth, and they are not too firm or unforgiving if a horse lies down a lot or falls. Covered with rubber stall mats, they are even better.

     

    Whether or not you use rubber mats, keeping the floor bedded with wood shavings or chips makes the horse more comfortable; helps keep the floor dry despite urine and fecal deposits; and, if they are pine chips or shavings, can help with odor control and cleanliness.

    Fly Mask

    Fine-woven mesh protective gear that fits over a horse's eyes. Masks are usually held securely under the chin with Velcro strips, with a padded strap around the ears to secure them from above.

     

    The horse can see through the mesh, but the flies cannot get in to feed on the discharge from the horse's eyes. These masks are appropriate for any horse grazed outdoors in daylight during fly season (they are taken off when the horse returns to his stall), especially horses that are particularly bothered by flies.

    Foal Harness

    Harnesses for foals are often safer and more humane than halters. They place pressure on the sturdy shoulders and chest rather than on the fragile head.

     

    You can purchase a foal harness or you can use an adult halter, put on upside down, as a harness for young foals.

    Footing Safety in Winter

    If a horse is turned out in winter, he will probably be safer without shoes. He will have less chance of building up snowballs, which are held by shoes. He will also have better traction and feel for his footing if left unshod.

     

    If a horse must cross paths and driveways, spread gravel, sand, or rock salt on icy places. If a horse falls or sprawls, he could damage soft tissues, or worse yet, fracture his pelvis.

    Footwear

    The main footwear for a horse is the shoe; shoes may be plain or orthopedic. Traction may be improved for specific purposes, such as galloping cross country or performing on grass, with caulks.

     

    Caulks are pointed metal studs of various shapes that screw into holes in the shoe.

     

    Bell boots, made of plastic, rubber, or other material, are sturdy, flexible, protective devices that cover the horse's hoof from just above the coronet to the lower part of the hoof. These boots prevent a horse from hitting the bulb of his front heels with his hind feet if he overreaches.

    Forward Seat

    A style of hunt-seat riding. While balanced seat asks for the rider's torso to be upright with weight on the seatbones and heels dropped down through a slightly bent knee, forward seat asks for the rider to incline her torso a few degrees in front of the vertical during all work above a walk. Irons (stirrups) are usually one to two holes shorter than in balanced seat, creating a deeper bend in the knee.

     

    This seat is also balanced - that is, the rider's weight is distributed behind the withers of the horse and in line with the horse's center of gravity - but the balance is achieved through an S-curve rather than the more static position of balanced seat.

     

    Balanced seat riders most often shorten their stirrup leathers one or two holes when jumping big fences to allow their buttocks to clear the saddle as the horse jumps up and rounds his back. (Horses rarely round their backs over low fences.) Forward seat riders generally carry the same stirrup length over fences and on the flat.